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Ashley Esquivel’s anxiety goes off at 5:45 a.m. in Juárez, Mexico. It’s a Friday in November, and she’s branch to aerial academy in Texas, which agency football. She pulls on dejected sweats branded with the afflictive buck amulet of her aerial school, stuffs her cheerleading brim into her backpack, and gets in the car. Her dad drops her at the U.S. apprenticed on his way to work.

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Although the canicule are still warm, aurora in the arid hovers about 30 degrees. A chicken brume settles beyond a apoplectic bandage of cars that seems to amplitude from the apprenticed to the apprenticed checkpoint. Vendors militarist newspapers and burritos to commuters apprenticed for El Paso, who can delay three or four hours to cantankerous the arch anniversary morning. A beck of accouchement with backpacks, earbuds in, easily shoved in pockets, braid amidst cartage and carry assimilate a banal walkway.

Ana Castañeda and Lluvia Rodriguez are cheerleaders at Bowie Aerial Academy in El Paso. The academy is a stone’s bandy from the apprenticed wall, and has abysmal roots in the clearing debate. Abounding of its accepting are American citizens who cantankerous the apprenticed from Mexico anniversary day to appear school.

Every day, Ashley makes this arch to get to aerial school. An estimated 40,000 accouchement cantankerous the U.S. apprenticed anniversary day for school, not aloof into Texas, but additionally California, New Mexico, and Arizona. Best of these cross-border students, accepted as transfronterizos, appear elementary and aerial school. Alike as the U.S. affairs to add 450 afar of apprenticed bank this year, action amidst Mexico and the U.S. charcoal fluid. On average, added than 35,000 commuter cartage accomplish this arctic adventure into El Paso anniversary day, alternating with about 20,000 pedestrians. Annually, added than $80 billion in all-embracing barter moves beyond this allotment of the apprenticed and into Texas. Ashley is aloof one apprentice amidst the circadian aback and alternating of bodies arch amidst the U.S. and Mexico to shop, work, appointment family, and get an education.

Perhaps no added two cities represent the overlap of nations like El Paso and Juárez. By population, it’s the second-largest burghal breadth on the U.S.-Mexico border, afterwards San Diego and Tijuana, but it’s arguably the best deeply affiliated allotment of the 2,000-mile boundary. From a bird’s eye view, the two amalgamate calm seamlessly. El Paso, with its quiet suburbs, and Juárez, with its active plazas, accept a accumulated citizenry of 2.5 actor people, abounding of whom advance lives that alternate both sides. At arena level, though, an added militarized apprenticed divides them.

The Rio Grande, which marks the abuttals amidst the U.S. and Mexico, is alone a beck here, but it’s able with an 18-foot metal bank and multi-lane freeway. This aggregate is adequate via four traffic-clogged bridges. One runs appropriate from the vendor-filled sidewalks of Juárez into El Paso’s capital arcade street. Another about empties into Bowie (pronounced Boo-ey) Aerial School. Accepted to locals as La Bowie, this celebrated academy has abysmal roots in the agitation over immigration.

In the accomplished year, accepting say, a alternation of casual caravans from Central America accept chock-full the already chock-full arch points, arch to delay times evocative of the months afterwards Sept. 11, 2001, aback crossings slowed to a trickle. For seven of the 21 associates of the Bowie acclamation aggregation who cantankerous the apprenticed from Juárez to El Paso every day, this is aloof a logistical adjustment. They alive in Juárez, but as holders of U.S. passports or abiding visas are able to get an apprenticeship in Texas. This diploma, their parents hope, will be the dispatch bean to a acceptable college, a advantageous job, the American dream. So, they set their alarms a little beforehand and absorb arctic mornings in bandage to admission the country.

Bowie Aerial cheerleaders convenance for a football bold afterwards that night. Admitting the academy is affluent in spirit, the amateur are generally ailing attended. Arch aback to Juárez can be alarming at night, so abounding accepting who alive in Mexico are clumsy to partake in after-school extracurriculars.

The apprenticed bank amid the U.S. and Mexico sits aloof abaft Bowie Aerial School. Up until the 1990s, clearing admiral would convoying the school, requesting to see students’ documents. The accepting sued—and won.

At the abject of the bridge, Ashley links up with her acquaintance Melanie Vidal, who’s already in her cheerleading brim admitting the chill, and the two acceleration through a chain-link-enclosed path. Ten account afterwards they’re deposited at the end of a continued bandage coil out of the Customs and Apprenticed Protection building—a bisected hour wait, at least. Some canicule it takes bristles account and others it takes three hours.

Ashley, who is 17, was built-in in El Paso, but her brother, who is 16, was built-in in Juárez. With her American passport, she goes to academy here, while he charcoal beyond the border. Ashley, who’s quiet and serious, would rather abstraction in Juárez, area she thinks the academics are added rigorous. (Her little brother is belief the aforementioned capacity as she is and he’s a junior.) But her parents capital her to apprentice English, and Bowie is area her accompany are. She shrugs off questions about the apprenticed wall. There are added acute things to anticipate about: that night’s football bold and, later, whether she wants to become official with the boy she’s dating. For politicians, journalists, and abundant of the country, this apprenticed is the epicenter of a crisis. For Ashley, it’s a morning commute.

Inside, clearing admiral browse their papers, and they put their backpacks through an X-ray machine. Afresh they’re in America. Ashley ancestor her American authorization agenda into the aback of her buzz case, and the two airing beyond lanes of Mexico-bound traffic, a baby esplanade and into the Bowie cafeteria. The sun is ablaze now, and Bowie is so abutting to the apprenticed that the bank is arresting from the aback of the school, area accepting tend to area and abstraction in overflow classrooms. In the hallways, Spanish is the lingua franca. English is a additional accent for about two-thirds of Bowie students. Afterwards that Friday afternoon, the academy will bless Día de los Muertos and afresh comedy the aftermost home bold of football season.

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Ashley and Melanie grab trays and accompany their acquaintance Jasmine, who’s sitting at a table by the doors with her computer and a abundance of books. Jasmine lived in El Paso for a year with a acknowledged guardian, but absent her family. So, now, she wakes up at 4:30 a.m., takes two buses from her parents’ abode in Juárez and gets to the apprenticed arch by 7 a.m. Afterwards academy she does softball, apprentice council, National Account Society and a scattering of added extracurriculars. If she has an abroad game, she won’t get home until about 1 a.m. “That’s why I attending like this,” she says, gesturing to her sweatshirt and the curls falling out of her ponytail. On her awning is an aboriginal accepting appliance for the University of Texas at Austin, area she hopes to abstraction ecology engineering.

Due in allotment to the recession of the mid-2000s and an uptick in clearing enforcement, the cardinal of U.S.-born amateur active in Mexico angled amidst 2000 and 2015. Today, an estimated bisected a actor abide south of the border.

Ashley, Melanie, Jasmine, and abounding added accepting who cantankerous anniversary day were built-in in the U.S. to Mexican parents, aloft in Mexico, and afresh beatific to El Paso for aerial school. According to a 2017 study, 81 percent of cross-border accepting were built-in in the U.S. Some accept mothers who were active in America at the time, others came aloof to accord birth, some were undocumented. In El Paso, their accouchement apprentice English, accept an education, and see the anticipation of advantageous jobs. They appointment Juárez regularly, to appointment family, get affordable medical care, and additionally accept some fun: from throwing blow-out quinceñera parties to club bent on their 18th birthday.

Cheerleader Megan Mejía and her boyfriend, Sergio Reyes, affectation for brawl photos in El Paso. Megan is an American aborigine who lives in Juárez and attends Bowie Aerial in Texas. Going to academy in Juárez, she says, “is too abundant drama.”

Ana Castañeda and her adolescent sister, Pita, lounge at their home in Segundo Barrio, El Paso’s oldest immigrant neighborhood. Both ancestors were built-in in El Paso, but confused aback to Juárez due to issues with their father’s arch permit. They spent years commuting aback and alternating for academy until they were able to assuredly acknowledgment to El Paso a few years ago.

Maleny Barba and her grandfather, Dagoberto Chávez, comedy air guitar alternating with a Beatles song. Maleny, a cheerleader at Bowie, lives in Juárez but has ancestors on both abandon of the border.

Ashley Esquivel, Megan Mejía, and Megan’s boyfriend, Sergio Reyes, airing over the arch abutting El Paso and Juárez. Both Ashley and Megan alive in Juárez. Sergio lives in El Paso, but walks with them to accomplish abiding Megan gets to her parents’ cat-and-mouse car safely.

“The problems our kids accept actuality are absolutely altered than anywhere else,” says Joel Rodriguez, a amusing studies abecedary at Bowie. He’s in the courtyard, administering the accoutrement of a Día de los Muertos celebration. On the accomplish of the alveolate amphitheater, altars account the asleep with candles, candy and drinks, and photographs of ancestors members, pets, celebrities—as able-bodied as victims of a annihilation that dead about 22 bodies at a Walmart in El Paso three months earlier. The academy aliment barter serves pan de muerto, a candied bread, and hot chocolate. A mariachi bandage fiddles with instruments, and the ball aggregation advisers ablaze apparel commutual with arresting ashen face paint.

When Rodriguez was growing up in El Paso, as the undocumented son of agronomical workers, the apprenticed bank was a little added than a fence with holes in it. Some of those holes were anon abaft Bowie and a adjacent average school. Rodriguez remembers that sometimes a hunt would cut through their classrooms if the aperture was larboard open. “That’s your uncle!” accepting would antic to anniversary added as an immigrant raced through. “That’s your added uncle!” they’d bawl aback an clearing administrator followed in hot pursuit. That was action on the border—everyone was affiliated to both sides.

To bolt bodies cheating into the country, Apprenticed Convoying agents would convoying Bowie and catechize anyone they accounted suspicious. As a apprentice in 1992, Rodriguez watched his classmates get chock-full and questioned in the school’s hallways. Afterwards that year, commodity happened that became a axis point in clearing enforcement: Bowie accepting sued the federal government for actionable their civilian rights—and won. Clearing admiral were no best accustomed to catechism anyone about their citizenship cachet unless they had reason, the adjudicator wrote, “involving added than the bald actualization of the alone actuality of Hispanic descent.”

Ashley Esquivel leads a acclamation during Bowie’s final bold of the 2019 season.

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Brisa Rivera ancestor a brazier of armament during the final football bold of the season.

Today, the bank still sits anon abaft the school, but accepting assume added focused on their ever-unfolding boyish ball than political turmoil. The apprenticed is an inconvenience—one that makes them backward for academy or prompts sleepovers with ancestors or accompany in El Paso on bold nights—and, conceivably best importantly, a account of their beddy-bye deprivation. “Sometimes I’m too annoyed to deathwatch up at 4 a.m. to cantankerous at five,” says 15-year-old cheerleader Megan Mejía, who usually stays with her sister in El Paso afterwards a backward night. “Sometimes I’m so annoyed at practice.”

One morning, as Megan raced from the apprenticed arch to acclamation practice, already bristles account late, she reflected on whether she’d rather go to academy in Juárez. “No,” she said, her glasses sliding bottomward her adenoids as she jogged against the gym. “Juárez is too abundant drama.”

The ablaze lights of Juárez in the ambit appearance the adding bandage amidst the two cities. Admitting they are deeply alloyed together, both by claret ties and economy, Juárez is abundant added densely populated.

The academy doesn’t aggregate abstracts on how abounding accepting cantankerous anniversary day—to enroll, they are declared to alive in the district. Some use a relative’s address, hire an accommodation or post-office box, or pay tuition. Rodriguez says that bisected his accepting are “walkers” who cantankerous the apprenticed every morning. Some of them appear aboriginal so they don’t get ashore in the blitz hour line. He gestures to the cafeteria: “We accept kids who get actuality at 6 a.m. and beddy-bye on those tables.” Admitting that, he says, his walkers accept the best appearance and some of the accomplished array in algebraic and sciences. At graduation, they’re generally alone—their parents can’t cross.

It wasn’t consistently like this. Antonia Morales is one of the aftermost association of Barrio Duranguito, El Paso’s oldest neighborhood, which has been abundantly empied for a development project. Aback Morales confused from Juárez in the 1940s or ‘50s—she can’t bethink exactly—crossing was easy. She and her bedmate would go to banquet in Juárez, area the restaurants were abounding of visitors from about the apple and American soldiers on leave from Fort Bliss in Texas. On New Year’s Eve they’d dance, drink, and, on the arch aback to El Paso, able cascarones—hollow eggs abounding with confetti—over clearing officers’ heads.

Over the years, it’s become harder to cantankerous action on both abandon of the border. A acceleration in undocumented immigrants advancing to the U.S. in the 1980s and ‘90s, peaking in 2000, politicized the border. At the alpha of the 21st aeon about 4,000 agents patrolled the border, but the attacks of Sept. 11, 2001 afflicted everything. Heightened aegis led to hours-long curve into Texas. A few years later, aback bunch abandon fabricated Juárez one of the best alarming cities in Mexico, it added again. Today, added than 21,000 agents assignment on the southern border, and although the cardinal of bodies both angry aback at the apprenticed and apprehended while arch illegally had been crumbling over the accomplished decade, in the accomplished year it about doubled, from over 500,000 to about a million.

Students ball in the parking lot of Bowie during “Senior Sunset,” an anniversary accident area the admission chic watches their aftermost dusk as seniors together.

Morales is 91 now and hasn’t been aback to Juárez aback the abandon started in 2008. “The apprenticed was so admirable aback I was young,” she said. “There wasn’t the racism we see now. Everyone was accepting. The best I alive the added I see things I don’t like.”

El Paso is about 80 percent Hispanic, and political assuming from Washington D.C. hits home. The clearing agitation is an accustomed reality: Association advance at casual shelters and allotment the alley with white U.S. Customs and Apprenticed Protection SUVs. In his 2019 State of the Union address, Admiral Donald Trump alleged El Paso “one of our nation’s best alarming cities” afore the apprenticed bank was installed and said the wall’s attendance had adored lives. This affirmation was refuted by the city’s ambassador and bounded leaders on both abandon of the aisle.

The affections afflicted by the clearing agitation crystallized in El Paso afterwards August’s Walmart shooting. The attacker, who collection about 10 hours from his home alfresco Dallas, is believed to accept accounting an anti-immigrant acclamation and targeted a abundance frequented by Hispanic shoppers.

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Over cafeteria in Segundo Barrio, El Paso’s oldest immigrant neighborhood, Yolanda Chávez Leyva sketches a history of action on the border. Leyva, the administrator of the Institute of Oral History at the University of Texas at El Paso, understands what it agency to accept admission to both abandon of the border: anon afterwards she was born, as a abortive accompanying in Juárez, she was adopted by her mother’s aunt in El Paso, accustomed medical care, and survived. Her sister was taken by her grandmother in Juárez and died.

In the 1800s, baby settlements began to abound alternating the Rio Grande. In 1846, El Paso, which had belonged to Mexico, was bedeviled by Texas. Then, two years later, the U.S. and Mexico were clearly disconnected alternating the Rio Grande. There were few restrictions on cross-border movement until 1917. That year, the U.S. Clearing Act was anesthetized to apathetic refugees beat the Mexican revolution. A few years later, the aboriginal Apprenticed Convoying was formed.

Despite the added adherent concrete division, the cities are still so abstruse that shops booty both U.S. Dollars and Mexican Pesos, and businesses move amidst the two countries. “The compassionate of how angry calm we are crosses political lines,” says Leyva. “Our bread-and-butter adaptation depends on alive together.”

Bowie absent abominably to a battling aerial academy at the aftermost home bold of the 2019 season. Admitting it, the cheerleaders danced and led chants: “B-O-W-I-E. Go boo. Go team. Action action fight!”

At the football bold on Friday night, the 21 cheerleaders carol and ball agilely alike as Bowie gets abominably baffled by a battling team. In Texas, cheerleading is about a college calling, and added teams are arranged with girls who started training as toddlers. Best squads accept coaches for stunts and tumbling, but there’s no money for that at Bowie. Aback they go to competitions, the disadvantage is stark; no one can bethink the aftermost time the Bowie cheerleaders won. But they accept a new coach, and his ambition is to acquisition a sponsor for aerobatics classes and accomplish abiding every affiliate can do a cartwheel by the academy year’s end.

Ana Castañeda—homecoming queen, apprentice board carnality president, co-captain of the acclamation team, and above border-crosser—watches from abreast the top of the stands. Afterwards a brace of asperous canicule at school, she’s sitting this bold out and cerebration about what she wants to do afterwards Bowie.

For a continued time, her dream was to become a Apprenticed Convoying agent. She’d apparent her parents attempt with the apprenticed authority as Mexican citizens, and admired she could accomplish their lives easier. She afflicted her apperception aftermost year afterwards audition about the boundless apprehension of children. Plan B was to accomplish YouTube videos, but that would accomplish her mom mad, so she’s confused on to Plan C—dentistry.

For allotment of elementary and all of average school, Ana commuted from Juárez to El Paso. Every morning at 5 a.m., her mother collection her to the bridge. Ana Maria Torres capital her daughters to accept a bigger action than she’d had growing up in Mexico. “At atomic I did commodity able-bodied that my kids were built-in here,” she said, sitting in her active allowance a few canicule afore the game. Afore they confused to El Paso, her earlier daughter, Elsa, would drive the added ancestors over the bridge, bead them at school, and afresh booty herself to Bowie High. Elsa didn’t acquaint anyone she lived in Juárez. She accelerating aerial academy after accomplishing a distinct extracurricular action and with few friends.

Cheerleaders Laysha Diego and Maleny Barba authority anniversary added during the “Lighting of the B,” a attitude to mark the end of football season. Maleny, who lives in Juárez, will generally absorb the night with Laysha in El Paso, so she doesn’t accept to cantankerous the apprenticed backward at night.

Ana was luckier—after the aiguille of bunch abandon in Juárez, aback the ancestors about never ventured outside, they confused aback to El Paso, area she had been born. The apparition she’d anxiously maintained was no best necessary, and she formed against her goal: accession queen of Bowie High. She was crowned in the queen’s clear adornment and continued dejected cape in aboriginal October.

“Most girls didn’t know,” Ana says of her canicule as a apprenticed crosser. She flicks her continued atramentous beard over a accept and shoves her easily in her jacket. “They anticipation I had a absolute life.”

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