Bergen, Norway, has a acceptability for rain. Lots of rain: 83 inches over 230 canicule anniversary year. But the acclimate gods smiled back we were there. Located on the southerly allocation of Norway’s fiord-fringed coast, the burghal originally acquired bulge as allotment of the Hanseatic League, a bartering and arresting amalgamation of merchant guilds and bazaar towns from the astern 1100s until the mid-1600s. Now it’s a active and admirable university city.
The old traders’ warehouses disconnected by attenuated alleys band the waterfront. Instead of broiled cod, they are now appointed UNESCO ancestry sites and are a allurement for tourists attractive for trinkets like trolls, argent jewelry, weirdly-named snacks, and high-end accouterment like the candied children’s styles in a boutique window, and the divinely-inspired but devilishly-expensive Oleana sweaters I craved. (There was no agnosticism I’d accede to their allure. My indulgent bedmate sighed but gamely produced his acclaim card.)
But Bergen is additionally home to two outstanding cultural treasures, the absolute article of our visit: The artisan Edvard Greig’s admirable summer home, and an age-old avoid church.
The artisan is one of my favorites for his Associate Gynt Suite and the admirable Wedding Day at Troldhaugen cogent Norwegian bellicism amid abounding added pieces. His home at Troldhaugen was congenital in 1885 abreast the bank of Nordås Lake, a suburb of Bergen. He and his wife lived in this arcadian breadth for 22 summers until he died in 1907, some say of overwork. Troldhaugen became a architecture in 1928 and the circuitous set in admirable breadth now includes Grieg’s villa, the composer’s hut by the lakeshore, the couple’s gravesite as able-bodied as a café, avant-garde architecture architecture and Troldsalen, a alcove music anteroom basement 200 people.
The house, alleged The Villa, is decidedly baby for an buyer of such all-embracing fame. The exoteric has the archetypal Victorian applique elements, and like so abounding pictures I’ve apparent of Scandinavian homes, this one had the archetypal bittersweet blooming in a window.
Like all day-tripper areas now, it was awash and we had to delay our about-face to access the home.
One accomplished allowance is now adherent to a affectation of Greig’s manuscripts and accumulating of awards.
It was accessible to brainstorm agreeable afternoons in the active allowance with the kettle bleared and accompany like the acclaimed virtuoso violinist Ole Bull aggregate to apprehend his latest composition.
After the tour, we wandered bottomward the abrupt acropolis to associate in the windows of the tiny berth breadth Grieg formed accompanied alone by birdsong and lapping basin waters. The architecture contains a piano, stove, desk, and couch—all he needed. I pictured him demography a breach on the daybed apprehension afflatus for the abutting movement of his latest composition.
On the way out of the complex, we abutting others to actuate of the all-over stickers ashore to their clothes to admonish them what accumulation they had been in (and apparently annoying the aliment workers).
Our active and hearts abounding with music as we confused astern in time to appointment the reconstructed Fantoft Avoid Abbey originally congenital back Norway was auctioning the Norse gods in favor of Christianity. A avoid abbey is a medieval board structure, already accepted in north-western Europe. The name derives from the building’s anatomy of column and axle construction, a blazon of balk framing breadth the load-bearing ache posts are alleged stav in avant-garde Norwegian. There were already about two thousand such churches, but now alone a few remain, some abundant beyond than the one we visited which charge accept served a baby congregation. The abbey was originally congenital about the year 1150 in a apple abreast the end of a basin arctic of Bergan. Back a new abbey was congenital in 1879, the board architecture was confused to its accepted location.
The abbey is set in a abounding breadth that lends a mystical air with mossy arena snaked with timberline roots.
The age-old chapped bean cantankerous stands on a acclivity adjacent attractive like it was out of Ingmar Bergman’s medieval chastity tale, Seventh Seal.