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Who is Selena? for several canicule aftermost spring, that catechism was on everyone’s lips, as America struggled to appear to agreement with the adverse accident of a celebrity it didn’t alike apperceive it had. In the after-effects of Selena’s afterlife at the calmly of her fan-club president, Yolanda Saldivar–whose annihilation balloon began aftermost anniversary in Houston–thoughtful citizens wondered how a nation that abundance acceptance on Ricki Lake could accept abandoned for so continued this badly accomplished adolescent accompanist in spangled check tops. The accessible answer–“Well, for heaven’s sake, she sang in Spanish”– fails to abode the abstract affection of the matter, which is that, at the aforementioned time, millions of bodies in Mexico Burghal were apprehensive Selena? Quien es Selena?

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National borders are generally anomalies, like Alsace-Lorraine, neither absolutely French nor wholly German. The Mexican-American border, abandoned by abandoned chastening from both heartlands, has undergone what University of Arizona historian Oscar Martinez calls “a profound, bashful integration” of its two halves. Selena, accurately an American, by ability and accomplishments was a aborigine of a abode that issues no passports. She was of la frontera: the border.

From the aperture of the Rio Grande to the Pacific la frontera is 2 000 afar long, and it: extends, by accepted estimates, conceivably 60 afar in either administration (map). It appropriately comprises genitalia of four American and six Mexican states and a citizenry that has developed in a decade from beneath than 7 actor to some 12 million, and could appear abutting to acceleration in the abutting decade. It speaks two languages additional an aboriginal amalgam accepted as “Spanglish” (box); it has its own music with roots in both traditions (following story) and a adoration that borrows from the active Indio-Catholicism of Mexico and the athrill faith-healing attitude of the Anglo settlers.

The arena has aggressive a beginning literature, whose best-known articles in-elude Cormac McCarthy’s “All the Pretty Horses” and Laura Esquivel’s “Like Baptize for Chocolate.” Filmmakers like Mexico’s Maria Novaro acquisition the border’s “vital nonconformity” irresistible; in her new cine “El Jardin del Eden” (“The Garden of Eden”), a distinct Chicana mother moves from Los Angeles to Tijuana to accession her children, and confronts her alienation from her culture. The arena has a civic sport, which consists of impressing girls by active about in low-rider sedans that annoyance a aisle of blaze on the pavement. And it has its own transnational economy, predating NAFTA, consisting of maquiladoras–the factories breadth Mexican workers accumulate appurtenances to be alien to the United States–and administration food that advertise the selfsame TV sets and dungarees aback to Mexicans.

The actionable gateways to la frontera are Monterrey, Nuevo Leon and San Antonio, Texas. From San Antonio you can drive southwest on I-35, accomplished rangeland that grows progressively drier and rockier, to the warehouses that mark the outskirts of Laredo, the additional fastest-growing burghal breadth in the United States and one of the poorest. Martha Fenstermaker, now the administrator of the art administration at Laredo Community College, fabricated this cruise in 1983, and was afraid to acquisition “a altered world” 150 afar from home, breadth July 4 was about acclaimed but anybody got aflame about the Day of the Dead, a Mexican folk anniversary in which families pay ritual visits to festively busy cemeteries and eat bonbon skulls.

Other migrants from the heartland are active by the academic abode of accustomed exchanges in MexAmerica; they feel as if they’re actuality apparent up aback strangers abode them as “Senor,” or alike “Sir.” “People 150 afar to the arctic or south of us don’t apperceive who or what we are here,” says Sam Johnson, a arresting Laredo abettor who teaches a chic to advice newcomers from the arctic affected the shock of activity like strangers in their own country. He encourages them to leave the malls occasionally for the bright arcade streets of Laredo’s cross-border accompanying city, Nuevo Laredo, breadth commodity is organized on the assumption that every abundance sells everything. “Dulceria y Materias Primas,” reads the assurance over one enactment that clearly deals in bonbon and architecture materials. Religious items are all-over in the stores, absorption the role of adoration in people’s lives. A abounding yerberia will advertise alleviative herbs and incense, forth with affable spices including four kinds of broiled chilies, icons of doe-eyed saints forth with China eats and milkmaids. This can be disorienting to citizens of a country breadth shoes, active shoes and hiking boots anniversary accept abstracted food adherent to them. “I don’t appetite to complete like a goober, but it was like accepting a adopted assignment,” says one of Johnson’s above students, C. W. Moore, a U.S. Customs appropriate abettor transferred to Laredo aftermost year from Jacksonville, Fla. Miserable at first, he and his wife are now alloyed abundant to plan a blithe Day of the Dead appointment to their anew asleep neighbor’s grave.

An important alteration takes abode about Cotulla, 50 afar arctic of the bound at the abuttals amid Texas open-pit barbecue and the tortilla-and-chili cuisine accepted as “Tex-Mex.” There is an arising haute bound cuisine, which emphasizes bounded capacity such as pinon basics and alike tequila (unheard of in classical Mexican cooking)–Texas cookbook columnist Lucinda Hutson has appear a compound for gazpacho with a accomplished cup of tequila, additional serrano chiles. But newcomers bound acquisition that the staples of the bound diet-tortillas, rice, beans, enchiladas and tacos–are impervious to refinement; they are the aforementioned from abode to place, and aback you consistently adjustment the aggregate plate,they are the aforementioned every day, too. On the Mexican side, you may acquisition barbecued cabrito (baby goat) or a bowl fabricated with mole, although conceivably a birthmark Americanized to a point amid amid the enigmatic, alien aboriginal and a broiled Hershey bar.

For the American managers of maquiladoras, accepting acclimated to quesadillas for cafeteria is easier than adjusting to an about colonial accord to Spanish-speaking workers active on beneath than $15 a day). In Nuevo Laredo–poorer by far than the American city, but still one of the best flush in Mexico–workers alive in colonias on bearding clay streets in shanties congenital mostly of junk. In Colonia Nueva Era (“New Era”), a man squats in the clay alfresco a cantina, assuming the around-the-clock Third World ritual of acclimation a authorization tire, while beneath a roof of debris of plywood and tin lashed calm with alive electrical wire, a babe is affairs algid beers for 50 centavos–around eight cents. No admiration they attending beyond the river at Laredo’s malls and lawns and wonder, Why shouldn’t I accept that too?

Unfortunately, they are added acceptable to wind up in an identical colonia on the American side. Five hundred afar abroad on the outskirts of El Paso lies the beginning Colonia Las Pampas (“The Plains”), which has bigger houses, including some fabricated of cinderblock, but lacks the one advantage Nueva Era boasts, active water. (Neither abode has sewers.) Inhabitants expedition with their abandoned cans a half-mile to breadth the Southern Pacific affably provides them with chargeless water. Best of them are in the country illegally, says the woman who runs the bounded grocery (La Economia). Actuality undocumented actuality is taken matter-of-factly; there is annihilation avoiding about it, and indocumentados advisedly accord their names to reporters.

Migra’: The advance of colonias such as Las Pampas may be, in part, an adventitious aftereffect of “Operation Hold the Line,” a awful publicized affairs to able bottomward on actionable entries in the breadth about El Paso. Shortly afterwards demography appointment in 1998, Bound Patrol breadth arch Silvestre Reyes began stationing admiral at intervals of a division mile or beneath forth the Rio Grande, which can be calmly forded at this point. Anon the cardinal of acknowledged crossings fell dramatically, but those who did accomplish it beyond had an allurement to achieve rather than acknowledgment home and accident not accepting aback in. On a arid beach west of the city, a accumulation of four Mexicans were lounging in the afternoon sun one day aftermost month. They had accustomed at about aurora and spent the morning watching a atom on a abroad mountain, which they took to be the van of “La Migra,” the Bound Patrol. They were cat-and-mouse for La Migra to go to lunch, so they could birr beyond a arenaceous acreage into America, breadth they ability acquisition assignment abridgement hedges for $10 or $15 for what was larboard of the day. Apprised of this, Reyes–who is broadly accepted to abandon anon and run for Congress–roars that the poor souls ability as able-bodied go home. “La Migra,” he says grandly, “never goes to lunch!”

Of course, if they had approved jobs, or abundant money to absorb the day arcade instead of working, they could accept acquired a border-crossing agenda and absolved advisedly beyond one of the bridges arch to city El Paso. Americans, for their part, can cantankerous to Ciudad Juarez with about a nod from Mexican immigration. Returning to the States is about as simple; Juarez is the basic of Arctic American biologic smuggling, but the accustomed adventurer is rarely afflicted by Customs. A auto disciplinarian in Juarez agreed to drive three Americans aback to their car in El Paso–although he accepted $20 for the 10-min-ute trip–but as he approached the bridge he grew active and brash the senorita to pretend to accept askance her ankle. Otherwise, he said, the clearing administrator would accomplish them airing into America. There was no accessible acumen for this policy, aback taxis abroad advisedly backpack Americans beyond the bound but he was right.

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The bound is a acrid acreage and a poor one, but it commands a adherence all the added angry for accepting no banderole or canticle to assemblage it. The arena is abounding of families who trace their ancestor aback three or added ancestors in the aforementioned bend of Texas or New Mexico. Denise Chavez, one of the Mexican-American authors accepted (in Spanglish) as las girlfriends, adores the easygoing, acceptable spirit of ni modo she finds in her hometown of Las Cruces, N.M. This is an untranslatable byword that agency article like “No, I don’t feel like accepting that ashore car out of my yard, but you’re acceptable to any genitalia you can get off it.” On the border, she says, “exteriors are crumbling, unpainted, ramshackle, but central is a branch of magic.” She is absorption by the folk religion: the curanderos who alleviate with angelic baptize and herbs, adherent afore altars that attending like religious barn sales; the bounded saints like El Nino, a acceptance healer who died in 1988 in Espinazo, Mexico, and has been canonized by acclamation, not Rome; the angelic tortilla on which appeared an angel of Christ’s face, and which can be viewed, partially eaten, in a glass-fronted altar in someone’s active room. But mostly, she loves acceptance to a abode that is neither Mexico nor America, but some of both. Her ancestors came arctic from Mexico four ancestors ago, and she is as American as . . . well, as Selena. But “every day,” she says, “I anticipate of myself as a being with one bottom on anniversary ancillary of that border.”

The U.S.-Mexico bound arena has appear into its own in the accomplished decade. With its different music, literature, adoration and economy, it’s a accomplished ‘nother country, senor.

ARIZONA: ‘La Migra,’ the U.S. Bound Patrol, apprehends added than 1 actor actionable immigrants a year

NEW MEXICO: A brace dancing la quebradita–a mix of lambada, jitterbug and hoedown, but added academic and dignified

TEXAS: Pumpville is breadth Cormac McCarthy’s two boyish cowboys cantankerous over into Mexico in ‘All the Pretty Horses’

TEXAS: Laredo is the arts centermost of the region

SONORA: Banda and techno-banda music–an electric adaptation of of a acceptable Mexican ball rhythm–rules here

CHIHUANHUA: Nogales is one breadth accepted for maquiladora (factory) laborers who assignment mostly for Anglo-U.S. management

MEXICO: Piedras Negras was the ambience for the acknowledged book and box-office hit ‘Like Baptize for Chocolate’

CORPUS CHRISTI: Corpus Christi is the affection of Tejano music

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TAMAULIPAS: Mexicans accomplish pilgimage beyond the bound to McAllen malls to backpack home U.S. goods

12-13 million

2,000 afar long, 60 afar arctic and south of the border

Capital El Paso-Ciudad Juarez

City Tujuana-San Diego

English, Spanish, Spanglish

Roman Catholic, Protestant, Curanderismo (folk healing)

less than $15,000

factory assembly, cotton, fruits and vegetables, Tejano music

‘Spanglish’– a Spanish-English amalgam dialect-was already the artery argot of tough, bright Mexican-American cholos. Today Spanglish is the region’s third language, announced by adolescent and old, Latino and Anglo. Here’s how:

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With amalgam words:

(See you later, hasta luego–literally, we’ll watch anniversary added there)

(to shower, banarse)

(wife, esposa)

Using Spanish colloquialisms different to the region:

(frijoles, beans)

[This appearance cannot be represented in ASCII text]Como la juegas? ([This appearance cannot be represented in ASCII text]Cual es tu trabajo?, what’s your band of work?)

[This appearance cannot be represented in ASCII text]Que cura? ([This appearance cannot be represented in ASCII text]Que hay de nuevo?, What’s up?) ?A la brava ese! (Let’s cut the bull!)

Blending Spanish and English phrases in the aforementioned sentence:

(inversion: What’s the name de ese lugar?)

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(inversion: Appetite to go a bailar?)

(inversion: Que haces this weekend?

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